A peel based on mandelic acid will improve the skin faster than a similar treatment with other AHAs.

Mandelic acid - fruit acid (AHA), also known as phenoxyglycolic or amygdalic acid, is considered one of the milder acids of its class. Perhaps this is the only AHA that is suitable for chemical peeling of sensitive skin: relatively large molecules of this substance do not penetrate deep into the skin, their action is limited to the epidermis. Mandelic acid cleanses the skin well, regulates its tone, helps to get rid of fine lines and wrinkles, is used to eliminate hyperpigmentation and spots on the skin.

Synonyms: Mandelic Acid, Amygdalic Acid, Dl- Mandelic acid; 2-hydroxy-2-phenylacetic acid; 90-64-2; Almond Acid; hydroxyphenylglycolic acid, α-hydroxyphenylacetic acid.

Mandelic acid in cosmetics

The effect of mandelic acid in cosmetics

Mandelic acid belongs to the class of alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), also known as fruit acids. Their main purpose is exfoliation, that is, peeling and preparing the skin for the effects of cosmetics with active therapeutic ingredients. There is research evidence showing that mandelic acid is an effective alternative to other AHAs, as it has moderate bactericidal activity. Mandelic acid, like other fruit acids, is an excellent revitalizer: it stimulates the synthesis of collagen and activates the regeneration of the dermis at the cellular level. The effects of mandelic acid are quite versatile:

  • Keratolytic (exfoliating) action - destroying the bonds between individual scales of the stratum corneum of the epidermis, mandelic acid promotes rapid regeneration of young skin;
  • The comedonolytic effect is achieved by total exfoliation of the stratum corneum of the epidermis in the region of the mouths of the sebaceous glands, as well as by dissolving comedones when mandelic acid enters enlarged pores;
  • Bactericidal action: mandelic acid does an excellent job with a wide range of bacteria, including propionic ones - those that cause acne.

Although mandelic acid is comparable to other AHAs like glycolic or lactic acid, it is still milder and safer. The fact is that mandelic acid molecules are larger than other AHAs, so it penetrates the skin less, does not irritate it, and does not cause a burn.

A peel done with only mandelic acid is generally considered gentle - it does not cause physical effects on the skin, such as flaking (although this may be possible for some people). One of its strong advantages is that it does not cause depigmentation. The fact is that mandelic acid does not affect the activity of melanocytes, therefore age spots are eliminated only through exfoliation.

Who is mandelic acid indicated for?

Monocomponent peeling with mandelic acid is an excellent choice for the first chemical peel. Its antibacterial properties are beneficial for acne-prone skin. And because it's one of the most gentle chemical peels, it's safe to use on people with couperose, rosacea, or dark skin tones.

Mandelic acid is indicated in the treatment of acne, especially those acne that does not respond to other ingredients. It is also safe and effective as an exfoliation method for people with sensitive skin. Effective for the treatment of damaged skin. Depending on the concentration (peelings usually contain 25% mandelic acid), as well as the time of exposure to the skin, this component will help:

  • Exfoliate the stratum corneum of the epidermis
  • Even out skin tone and improve its tone.
  • Eliminate dark circles under the eyes.
  • Eliminate hyperpigmentation.
  • Get rid of inflammatory non-cystic acne.
  • Reduce signs of skin photoaging.
  • Get rid of fine wrinkles.

To whom is mandelic acid contraindicated?

Like any other alpha hydroxy acid, mandelic acid is contraindicated in skin lesions, exacerbations of herpes infection, atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis. This component should not be used after (or on the eve of) invasive cosmetic procedures - the introduction of fillers, grinding, microneedling, etc.

Cosmetics containing mandelic acid

Mandelic acid is used not only in peels - it is also an active ingredient in anti-aging creams or skin cleansers, although in such cosmetics it is used in much lower concentrations.

When using exfoliants or mandelic acid creams, proper skin care should be taken. This means that you cannot use any scrubs, exfoliants or invasive cosmetic procedures. It is also necessary to apply powerful sunscreens to protect vulnerable skin from UV exposure.

Sources of Mandelic Acid

Mandelic acid is obtained by processing alpha bitter almond nuts (Prunus dulcis or Prunus amygdalus or Amygdalus communis) by hydrolysis. Unlike common glycolic acid, mandelic acid is a photosensitive ingredient that must be packaged in an opaque container.

Things to know (Q&A)

Is mandelic acid natural?

Mandelic acid is an increasingly popular Alpha-Hydroxy Acid used for skin care that is naturally derived from the hydrolysis of an extract of bitter almonds .

Is mandelic acid harmful?

Mandelic acid is safe for all skin tones . It is a particularly good choice for skin of color because of its more gentle action. It won't cause irritation that can trigger hyperpigmentation. Mandelic acid is safe for use during pregnancy to treat melasma, acne, and photo-aging.

Is mandelic acid better than salicylic?

Research suggests that mandelic acid and salicylic acid are equally as good at treating acne but salicylic acid has an advantage when it comes to non-inflammatory acne (whiteheads, blackheads) while mandelic acid was better at treating inflammatory acne (papules, pustules, nodules, and cysts

Which is better mandelic acid or lactic acid?

Lastly, mandelic acid – it's actually the largest of the three and it's the AHA most often recommended for PIH-prone skin. The basic theory with acids is therefore, the bigger the particle size the more gentle it is on your skin. Therefore, mandelic acid is even more gentle than lactic acid

What is mandelic acid made from?

Mandelic acid is derived from bitter almonds . It's an AHA that's been mostly studied for use with acne. AHAs are natural and synthetic ingredients that provide skin care benefits ranging from exfoliation to increasing hydration and firmness.

Is mandelic acid a chemical?

Mandelic acid is an aromatic alpha hydroxy acid with the molecular formula C6H5CH(OH)CO2H. It is a white crystalline solid that is soluble in water and polar organic solvents. It is a useful precursor to various drugs. The molecule is chiral.
CHEBI:35825 - mandelic acid.

ChEBI Name mandelic acid

Is mandelic acid an organic compound?

Mandelic acid is an aromatic alpha hydroxy acid with the molecular formula C 6 H 5 CH(OH)CO 2 H. It is a white crystalline solid that is soluble in water and polar organic solvents. It is a useful precursor to various drugs. The molecule is chiral.
Mandelic acid.

show InChI
Chemical formula C 8 H 8 O 3

Is it safe to use mandelic acid everyday?

Depending on how your skin reacts to AHAs, this product can be used daily . If sensitivity occurs (redness, stinging, breakouts), cut back to every other day. It's also important to note that since Mandelic acid works by exfoliating skin, it can increase sun sensitivit

Is mandelic acid safe for skin?

Mandelic acid may transform your skin in as little as 2 weeks. It's a great choice for sensitive skin, as it's less irritating than other AHAs and has mild side effects . Before using any type of chemical peel, it's a good idea to check in with a dermatologist.

What are the side effects of mandelic acid?

Possible Side Effects

  • Dry and flaky skin.
  • Peeling.
  • Irritation or redness.
  • Skin that feels tender or sensitive.

Can mandelic acid burn your skin?

If you're wary of using mandelic acid DIY style, you needn't be because you won't burn your skin . You're also unlikely to feel any tingling but if you do, it could be that you have very dry skin and the acid is working overtime in order to buff away the top layer of dead cells.

Can you use salicylic acid and mandelic acid together?

Mandelic acid can be effective on its own, but it's usually combined with salicylic acid for maximum exfoliation and moisture . While salicylic acid is praised for its effective acne prevention and treatment, it doesn't have to do all the work—sometimes, the most effective way to treat acne is by mixing these two acid

Is mandelic acid the best?

Mandelic acid is a powerful ally and the best acid for acne . It works wonderfully bringing peace to problematic skin. This alpha-hydroxy-acid is a larger molecule than its close relative, glycolic acid. Due to the larger molecule size, it is drastically less irritative to the skin.

What does mandelic acid do for the skin?

Using skin care products containing mandelic acid help regulate sebum production, unclog pores, and reduce inflammation . This can result in fewer acne breakouts.

What is the difference between lactic and mandelic acid?

Lactic acid and mandelic acid have common application as an ingredient in skincare products. The key difference between lactic acid and mandelic acid is that lactic acid is not suitable for sensitive skin whereas mandelic acid is the best option for sensitive skin when these compounds are used in skincare product

Can I use lactic acid and mandelic acid together?

ou may use it alone or pair it with a hydrator. Do you recommend using Mandelic and Lactic Acid together in a night regimen? We suggest using them on alternate evenings to avoid any irritation .

What is stronger than lactic acid?

Glycolic acid offers the same benefits as lactic acid but at a greater strength than lactic acid. However, just because it is stronger doesn't always make it the better way to repair scars, fine lines, skin texture and complexio

Is mandelic acid better than glycolic acid?

Due to its larger molecular structure, mandelic acid doesn't penetrate the skin as deeply as glycolic acid, so it's gentler on the skin . Mandelic acid has been found to be effective for inflammatory acne and some forms of hyperpigmentation, as well as treating sun damage and evening out pigmentation.